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| Looking down the stairs from the apartment's landing. The stairs showed signs of years of wear. They were heavily varnished and clean and fascinating if one stopped to think of what stories they would tell. Below, I am standing on the corner of Rue des Lombards and Boulevard de Sebastopol. Everything, even the cobblestones, spoke of history. |
The initial planning of a trip centers on two main concerns: the actual
movement from place to place and the acquisition of places to sleep before, after,
or during the traveling. Food and other amenities can be assessed and
gathered after those main issues are secured. During our excursion through
France and the UK, Jon and I slept in four very different beds; we also saw
beds that were distinctive for who slept in them. Not all of the sleeping
facilities deserved the hoopla Shakespeare’s “second-best bed” willed to his
wife had earned, but each bed we encountered was important for the comfort it gave.
When Jon Jr. acquired his Manchester apartment, he assured us of a separate bedroom for when we were to visit. He told his sisters
and friends that he had a bed for guests, but they had to find their own way
across the Atlantic. Cousin Greg had already enjoyed Jr’s hospitality, and we
knew the second part of our trip would be with Jr. We did not have to worry about accommodations there, but we had to secure a room for the stay in Paris and then
decide how many other places we would stop overnight along the way to Manchester. Jon
and I considered other touring possibilities in France, but the more we planned
our Paris activities and what we wanted to experience, the clearer it became
that a central place in Paris for the week would be best for our plans. It
would allow us to move at our own pace.
Our daughter Marian had enjoyed a bike tour in Dordogne few
years before and had taken an apartment for a few days in Le Marais
neighborhood in Paris. She was so positive about the location, that we selected
an apartment for the week which was conveniently located for both walking and the Metro. It did have one concern that
the advertisement was very clear about, there was only 4.5 feet of clearance in
the sleeping area. In other words, don’t plan on standing next to the bed, and
be very careful about sitting up in bed. The price, however, was right. The
pictures were positive, and it provided a sleeper-sofa for two nights Jr would join us.
We arrived in Paris on Sunday morning and had specific
directions for the key pick-up. Jet-lagged and discombobulated, we secured our
keys from a lock-box with various codes and then turned to walk the few blocks
to our apartment. It was 9-ish on Sunday morning and the evidence of extensive
partying was everywhere. The brasseries were closed, but the trashcans in front
were overflowing with bottles and other fragrant items. The streets were
practically deserted. We found Rue des Lombards after getting turned around
at Les Halles, literally 500 feet away, and located the blue door of our
building. It was slightly set into the building and there were more codes to
enter the hall, another code for the glass door, and two flights of curving
stairs to go up. We had trouble with the lock, but a charming man with an empty
shopping bag over his arm helped us. We had to remember, he told us after
correcting my French, that the building was over 300 years old. Merci! We were
in.
The apartment was very small, but quite sufficient for two
tired travelers. Up the stairs to the loft we received exactly the height of
the ceiling we were promised. We had to laugh. The bed (I should say mattress)
was quite comfortable but was not in a bed frame. That would have taken up too
much room. Our 300-year old ceiling had thick irregular beams painted a
pristine white. It was not time to sleep, not yet. We had to be sensible and
tour the city before we had the chance to settle into the bed.
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